K’gari - report from the field.
K’gari
25.2398° S, 153.1325° E
If you’ve ever watched bogged at Inskip on youtube you’ll know the anxiety of heading out onto the sand spit to catch the manta ray barge at Rainbow beach - thankfully we were heading over to K’gari on a Monday morning which meant the weekend hoards had disappeared back to civilisation so there would be no audience in case we did indeed get bogged at Inskip.
The 15-minute trip across was smooth sailing, dolphins and prawn trawlers glided past and only a couple of other intrepid travellers were making the journey at high tide across the sandy straights.
Mistake number One - we missed the inland track turn-off after alighting the barge and spent a nervous few minutes wondering if our k’gari adventure would come to a sudden halt due to being sandwiched between the incoming tide and the small sandy cliffs of Hook Point, I managed to wrestle the 60 into a hasty 3 point turn in between advancing waves and we were soon on drier ground and heading inland.
Our mission for day 1 was to head to Eurong which lies on the east coast about 34 km up the beach, but because we were taking the inland track it was more like a 60km trip that went via the 3 main lakes and central station.
Recent heavy rains had washed out most of the tracks which meant our trip was bumpy and slow. The new suspension on the 60 was getting a workout and so were we, the rough pot-holed inland track eventually gave way to smaller sandy tracks and a few deep water crossings that had obviously appeared after the month-long deluge we had been copping in south-east Queensland - thank you new 2-inch lift.
There’s always that thing when you come to a water crossing - you know you should get out and check how deep it is or see if it’s a huge bog hole, but then it could also be more fun just to send it through and let fate decide - In my case though option B is not really an option given my co-pilot/navigator / significant other is the one who is really in control of such decisions. Out I get for the 10th time to walk the water crossing.
We made it to Eurong in the late afternoon after stopping for photo opportunities and Lunch of course, which consisted of Chicken Waldorf baguettes and Allens Party Mix. The weather wasn't looking good for the remainder of the trip, heavy rain was forecast for the next 2 days which meant we could be limited to how far we could explore.
Tacos for dinner.
We used to have 3 different tacos on the menu at the cafe we used to own in Geelong and this was one of them. If you're heading out camping it’s something that can be pre-prepared and taken along to reheat later, which is exactly what we did.
Kogi inspired shredded chicken Tacos.
Start by slow-cooking 3-4 chicken breasts in chicken stock - about 4 hours on a fast setting, you want to be able to pull apart the chicken so whatever time works depending on the amount your doing, in my case 4 hours works fine.
Oaxaca Cheese if you can find it - or a Mexican cheese blend from the supermarket will do
Pico de gallo - finely chopped red onion, tomato, jalapenos and coriander with a squeeze of fresh lime
Kogi Inspired sauce -
Mix a small tub of Gochujang with a teaspoon of rice wine vinegar, a tablespoon of sesame oil, a tablespoon of soy sauce and a tablespoon of white sugar.
Fresh avocado, chopped coriander and fried shallots as garnish.
Usually, I get the corn tortilla’s from La Tortillaria, but this time I used flour tortillas from La Banderita - they were pretty good, but I prefer the corn ones.
So what I do is heat a cast iron pan and toast the tortillas in a little olive oil and set them aside wrapped in a tea towel, then add the chicken with some olive oil to the pan and reheat until it starts getting crispy. Then add the cheese over the top of the chicken and let it melt.
Grab a tortilla add a large spoonful of chicken, a large spoonful of pico de gallo, then top with a decent dollop of Kogi sauce, a piece of avocado and a sprinkle of coriander and fried shallots. Repeat that about 4 times and you have an amazingly easy dinner that beats the socks of your usual canned spaghetti jaffle.
K’gari is one of those places that offers incredible astrophotography opportunities, with little to no light pollution you get an almost 180-degree view of the Milkyway in all its glory. We set the alarm for 2 am, hit the snooze button 2 more times and finally got up to take some pics. Something I’d definitely recommend getting up to see even if you are not that into photography.
Day 2 started a little wet and pretty much stayed that way for the entire day. We were heading to lake McKenzie as the first stop for breakfast - we had the foresight to grab a supply of croissants before we left Noosa, it’s our go-to camping breakfast - coffee and croissants - actually it’s our go-to breakfast all the time if I’m being honest. The tracks leading to lake McKenzie were quiet at this time of day, which for us was great as we were stopping every 5 minutes to take photos.
We had a little insider local knowledge about lake McKenzie that paid off in being able to find a secluded spot away from the crowds that had accumulated after breakfast, but probably wasn't the typical lake McKenzie experience given it was overcast and raining, still we managed to get some good photos that were a little more on the moody side.
Making our way to Central Sation for lunch was next on the agenda.
The rain wasn't going to stop for us, the wipers on the 60 were working overtime and the tracks were starting to get challenging for a near 40-year-old technology-free 4wd. We rolled into central station campground a little later than planned and set about making lunch.
Nachos with Chilli Con Carne
Most of the nachos you get in restaurants are crappy, either not enough cheese, not enough salsa, sour cream and guac are extra and they come out cold. General statement I know but there’s some truth in it.
Not these ones.
Chilli con Carne - is an optional extra, Belinda likes it, I can go without.
Basically, put all this into a slow cooker for 4 hours. Once cooked, refrigerate and reheat to serve. Should last about 5 days in the fridge or freeze for up to 3 months
500g mince beef
1 finely diced carrot
1 finely diced red onion
1 can chopped tomatoes
1/4 cup of tomato paste
Can of kidney beans
2-3 garlic crushed cloves
1 red chilli sliced
Salt and pepper
1 cup of water
Teaspoon cumin
We reheated the chilli con Carne on the bbq in a saucepan, then set about layering the corn chips with cheese and chilli con Carne while blasting it with the seerzall torch.
I think you’ll want about a 3 stack high, any more and you’ll end up with the bottom layer becoming too soggy.
When you’ve melted all the cheese it’s time to add the guacamole and sour cream - don't be shy, load that stuff up.
Then garnish with some chopped coriander and some sliced red chillis.
By now it was pouring rain, so we retreated to the front seats and dug in. We’ve obviously made this before and I shouldn't be surprised but the nachos were next-level delicious - aside from a cheeseburger is this the perfect lunch ? - could be.
We had a couple of decisions to make - the tide was looking good for a run up the beach to Eli Creek and the Maheno wreck, it was raining pretty heavily which made the going pretty slow - it’s slow at the best of times in the 60 but add in foggy windows, washed-out tracks and slippery tree rooted ruts and you could make more progress walking.
The petrol situation was a slight concern, would we have enough to make it up to the Maheno and back and then back to the barge tomorrow ? or were we going to have to take out another mortgage to fill up at Eurong, we decided to risk it.
Heading north we managed to get up to cruising speed and made good time, after dodging a couple of tourist buses and the odd light plane we bypassed stopping at Eli creek to save it for the return trip and headed onto the Maheno.
No one else there except a Hilux full of borderline adults who found joy in posing for selfies standing on the rusted-out wreck holding a bottle of Wild Turkey in the air like they’d found the holy grail - man, sometimes you just have to wonder. More photos.
Which brings me to Eli creek, and for me it’s perplexing - surrounded by stunning natural beauty, a crystal clear freshwater creek flowing out to the wild ocean you can't imagine a more pristine natural environment - OH NO WAIT I forgot we’re in Queensland, the move here is to cart a plastic blow-up pool toy all the way from Big W in Logan so you can use it once to float down the creek with a fag in one hand and a west coast cooler in the other, and don't forget to bring grandma who is tasked with keeping an eye on Jaxson and Sharlet who too have their very own quadruple life-size blow-up unicorn each to happily discard along with the wreckage of a use once only Kings gazebo. A little bit of water on the alternator, so escape from the suburbs was delayed.
Making our way back down the coast we stopped for coffee on the dunes and fired off a few more photos, it was evident we weren't going to make it back to Rainbow beach without refuelling - a great time to buy an old gas guzzler it was not.
Tonight's dinner is grilled rib eye and a middle eastern-inspired lentil and feta salad.
Like most Australian men, I've cooked many steaks, it’s kind of our thing right. Huge steak cooked on the barbie probably with chips and may or may not have salad attached. I’ve always eaten steak on the rare side of medium-rare and I don't think I'm alone when I say it’s the best way. So here's how I do it.
Steak at room temp and patted dry with paper towel ( key number 1 ) salt flakes only - no pepper yet.
I pretty much use only a cast-iron skillet for most camp cooking and I like to get it hot - smoking hot ( key number 2 ). After adding the steak I’m looking for a good crust on both sides so usually turn it a number of times.
When I think it’s just past rare I add a good chunk of butter, some sprigs of thyme and a decent hit of ground black pepper.
Next I want to bathe the steak in butter by spooning it over while still on the heat, I’ll do this for about a minute then take off the heat, remove the steak and let it rest for a good 5 minutes. (key number 3).
I bought the salad already made, so can’t really claim that one. Dinner again was great.
An early morning to beat the tide for the trip back to the barge, coffee and croissants again before nicking into the servo to buy liquid gold ( not beer ). Drizzling rain and low clouds set an almost eerie scene down the beach, great for moody photos. For long stretches, we were the only ones travelling down the beach slowing only for washouts cutting through the hard sand, a dingo in the distance looked up and sauntered up into the dunes, the available beach was thinning ahead before Hook point, one eye on the encroaching water the other on the sheer sand cliff strewn with washed-up trees, making it around the point meant we could relax and it wasn't long before we made the barge queue. Back home to wash a mountain of sand out of the 60 and get dry.
Gear
Thomson Cooks Cleaver - Black Edition
Thomson Carbon Steel Chef Knife - Custom
Thomson Operator Nitro V with paracord wrap
Maxpedition Molle Pouch
Thomson Camp axe
Gasmate 2 burner BBQ
Seerzall gas torch
Lodge cast iron skillet
Hells Handle spatula/turner
Yeti Tundra 65 litre icebox
Yeti Hopper
Macpac duolight tent
Sea to Summit sleeping bag
Sea to Summit sleeping mat
Helinox chair 2
Pendleton blanket
Canon R5
Canon C70
Leica Q2
Gopro hero 10
DJI pro 2 drone
Canon RF 15 - 35
Canon RF 24 - 70
Canon EF 50mm 1.8
Canon EF 70 -200mm 2.4
